Tatar's national dessert chak-chak is a hit in Kazan

KAZAN, Russia (AP) -- There are arguably more chak-chaks for sale in Kazan's shops, cafes and restaurants than fans attending World Cup matches in the colorful city on the Volga river.

Traditionally eaten at weddings in central Asia, the sugary treat has become the national dessert of Tatarstan, the oil-rich region which promotes itself as the "Land of 1,001 Delights."

In the lively Bauman pedestrian street in downtown Kazan, vendors from the fast food chain Tubetey, which specializes in halal Tatar cuisine, are handing out the dish made from soft deep-fried dough, sugar and honey.

"When I was a kid, my parents, my relatives, used to make them at home. I grew up with chak-chaks," said Nourbek Batulla, a 30-year-old dancer told The Associated Press. "I would not say that I eat chak-chaks every day, but this is typically the kind of thing I bring when I'm invited somewhere."

Chak-chaks come in different shapes, most often in mounds, pyramids or noodles. During the World Cup, they are on display on the shelves of dozens of souvenir and food stores as Tatarstan's tourism officials use the dish to promote their region.

But it's not just for the tourists. Chak-chaks are truly loved by locals. Expensive in the ancient times because honey was a very rare commodity, chak-chaks are sold for about 30 rubles in Kazan's cafes -- the equivalent of half a dollar -- making them a very affordable pleasure. During the mild summer evenings of the World Cup, families sit at cafe terraces to enjoy the delicacy in the city located about 800 kilometers (500 miles) east of Moscow.

Chak-chaks are also very popular during Kazan's big events. In 2005, when the city celebrated its 1,000th birthday, a chak-chak weighing 1,000 kilograms (2,200 pounds) spanning across a 13,266 square meters area -- almost twice the size of a soccer field -- was made. More recently, a four-ton chack-chak, probably the biggest ever made, was baked to celebrate the start of the World Cup.

In Kazan, one of the 11 Russian cities hosting matches, the debate over the best makers and recipes of chak-chak has yet to be settled. Batulla recommends Khlebzavot 3, a factory where customers can buy their favorite dessert directly from manufacturers.

A good place to try the sugary dish is the chak-chak museum, a private place located in a refurbished 19th century wooden mansion just a stone's throw away from the Old Tatar district, on the left bank of the picturesque Kaban Lake.

There, Lisan Yarullina is taking visitors on a tour documenting Tatar's daily life before the 1917 Revolution that culminates with a degustation of chak-chaks and tea.

"There are so many recipes," she said. "Because it used to be a family-made thing, everyone has their own recipe, they are passed down through families. But the main ingredient is love. Without a good mood, it's impossible to achieve something tasty."

American tourist James Aguirre, in Russia for the World Cup, was among the group of about 10 people attending the visit at the museum earlier this week.

"It sorts of reminds me of Rice Krispies," he said.

Family roots, international flair blend for a delicious night out

The town motto in Webster states the area is “Where Life’s Worth Living.” I can’t speak to living there, but after spending an evening in the village for a food crawl, I’d vouch that the food scene is certainly worth visiting: 

Our Wednesday early-evening arrival preceded the weekly trivia night, where we found the cozy atmosphere already flowing with guests seated at wood tables and atop plaid-covered stools. Irish music played in the background and chalkboard signage spotlighted Irish beer, cider and whiskey.  Local and seasonal brews, as well as wine and Irish coffee, are also available.
                                                   

A taste of Ireland

Customers will always find one of the Barry’s at the helm of the bar, and our visit allowed Danny to walk us through the libations.

Pleased that one member of my group expressed interest in one of the 50 Irish whiskey options, Barry explained that in Ireland, many of the counties have a different take on what an Irish whiskey can and should be.

Family recipes

As his mother predicted, Barry’s family recipes (which he calls Irish soul food) made their way onto the menu. We were taken with the flavorful bowl of potato soup ($6.) Not too heavy in texture, the broth delighted from white wine, cream, fresh chopped rosemary, thyme and plenty of hardy red bliss bobbing potatoes.

A mashed version of those potatoes served as a thick and creamy topper for the Shepherd's Pie ($14.) Layered beneath the spuds, we plunged into ground beef seasoned with Guinness, sautéed peas, carrots and onions.

As an unexpected and pleasant touch, warm slices of homemade Irish brown bread were served on the side of both dishes. The recipe, which incorporates molasses, was offered to the Barry’s from a pub they visited in Ireland, a connection they still have today.

Watch bartenders compete, try global cuisine at fun food fests in Phoenix

The 2018 Devour Culinary Classic and the Seven Chefs Dinner are sold out.
                                               

The good news: There are still tickets to two Devour Phoenix events leading up to the main event March 3-4 at the Desert Botanical Garden. One is the annual Devour Phoenix Bartending Competition on Sunday, Feb. 25. The other is the inaugural Devour the World on Thursday, March 1.

Here's what you need to know about them:

Watch talented mixologists shake, stir, muddle and pour their way to the top as they vie for the title of Arizona Star Bartender.

This year's competitors are: Shawn Campbell of the Vig; Brien Corwin of Tempe Public Market Cafe; Daniel Friedman of DeSoto Central Market; Lauren Johnson of The Gladly; Matt Minsky of Hula's Modern Tiki; Manny Peña of The Windsor; Kapono Rowe of Welcome Diner; Ryan Shinn of The Breadfruit & Rum Bar and JT Taber of Gallo Blanco. Proceeds benefit Local First Arizona Foundation.

The reigning Arizona Star Bartender is Connor Mansager of Tucson's Welcome Diner.

This new event celebrates Phoenix's international scene. Guests can enjoy the peaceful surroundings of the Japanese Friendship Garden while tasting bites from top local restaurants, food trucks and other vendors.

Claudio Urciuoli's new restaurant Pa'La and fresh-fish market and restaurant Chula Seafood are part of the diverse lineup. Satay Hut, Andreoli Italian Grocer, Hana Japanese Eatery and The Rez an Urban Eatery are among other participating restaurants. Taiko player Ken Koshio will perform.

Juliana Goodwin: Ethnic cuisines bring world to the table

People often ask where I get my inspiration for recipes.Sometimes I get ideas when I travel, or a person’s personality spurs me to create something, but this week I was inspired by food from other ethnic cuisines.
                                         

I made an easy and delicious Moroccan-inspired chicken soup with couscous. I started with basic broth and added a cinnamon stick and cardamom pods to infuse it with different flavor. Then I sautéed onions and zucchini in cumin and added that to the broth. I tossed in shredded rotisserie chicken, carrots, cilantro and dried apricots (optional) and let it simmer. It was easy, healthy and delicious.

This is a time-consuming dish, but it’s still easy to make. I hope you enjoy the recipes.

Butternut squash stuffed with quinoa

Serves 4

2 large butternut squash

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

11/2 cups water

1 cup uncooked white quinoa

2 cups chicken stock

11/2 teaspoons garam masala

1/2 cup pecan halves

1/3 cup dried cranberries

1/2 cup dried apricot slices

2 tablespoons maple syrup

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut the butternut squash in half horizontally and remove the seeds and guts. Poke the neck of the squash a few times with a fork. Rub olive oil all over the surface. Place in a large glass pan, flesh side up, and add the 11/2 cups water to the pan to add moisture. Bake 55 minutes.

Then remove and sprinkle the brown sugar and cinnamon over the squash and return to the oven and cook 5 to 10 minutes until tender.

While the squash cooks, make quinoa according to directions except substitute chicken stock for the water in the recipe and add 1 teaspoon only of garam masala.

While the quinoa cooks, slice the apricots. When the quinoa is done, toss it with pecans, dried cranberries and apricot slices.

When squash is done, remove and stuff it with quinoa. Brush the flesh with maple syrup and remaining garam masala and serve immediately.

At intimate Kindred restaurant in Bay View, flavor comes first

Reviewing restaurants really is like tracking a moving target. Never mind that a restaurant after a few weeks, a couple of months or a year isn’t the same place it was the day it first opened; there are changes that have nothing to do with maturity. Chefs leave, menus change.
                                               

Kindred, a handsome, intimate restaurant with delicious food, opened in March in Bay View, in the seven-room boutique hotel Kinn, in a renovated 1907 brick building. I was in the midst of visiting Kindred in late spring to review it when Marija Madunic, who owns the restaurant with her sister Vesna, emailed to say the chef had left.

Well. That didn’t seem like the right time to review a restaurant. The place it had been was most certainly not the place it would be when the review was published.

So I waited, and now chef Patrick Murphy is settled in; he’s made delicious food at restaurants including Le Reve in Wauwatosa and, more recently, All Purpose in Walker’s Point. The waiting, visiting the restaurant a few times .. and here it is, almost Christmas.

The room is large, but wood and exposed brick give it warmth, and it even manages to feel intimate by having tables tucked into a series of nooks. That is, all but a long table in the center of the room for large groups, which looks like it’s straight from a castle’s great hall. Lighting is sexily dim but strategic enough that dinner usually is illuminated just right for Instagram.

The bar off to the side in its own little room is stylish and cozy, too. Add the smart cocktails and a nice tap lineup of craft beers, plus some interesting wines by the glass (or bottle), and you’ve got a nice den for drinks.