Friday, November 9, 2018

There’s more to curry night drinks than lager

Having attempted to persuade you of the virtues of drinking wine with curry on a number of occasions in the past, I'm going to give it a rest this time and stick to beer – and cider, an underrated partner for a takeaway. That doesn't just mean lager, though you'd be forgiven for thinking so, judging from the average curry house drinks list. But curry has moved on, and Indian restaurants have much more to offer these days than an eye-wateringly hot vindaloo.

Take a look at the list at Soho's Kricket, for example, which includes a lemongrass saison from Partizan Brewing and Wild Beer Co's Sourdough; or Dishoom, which lists Beavertown Gamma Ray pale ale and a Belgian wit. Hops work with spice, as do beers with a touch of fruity sweetness.

I wouldn't have picked it off the shelf, but I really loved Wild Card's Passionfruit Gose, a fruit-flavoured sour beer from brewer and TV presenter Jaega Wise and her team in Walthamstow, east London. The Danish brewery Mikkeller also has a refreshingly sharp-flavoured passionfruit Berliner weisse called Wood Will Fall Down (4.2%), which has been enterprisingly taken on by Marks & Spencer at £2.50 for a 330ml can and which would suit a mildish veggie curry. (If you're a Mikkeller fan, you may also like to know they've opened a bar – in Shoreditch, east London, of course.)

Although I'm not a big fan of fruit ciders, I have to admit that Peacock's Mango & Lime Cider, despite being bizarrely described as an Asian cider, is bang on the money. Given that it's made by Kingfisher, in collaboration with Aspall, you might even find it in your local Indian.

Hoppy pale ales, however, are my normal go-to with a curry (rather than IPAs, which are often too alcoholic). Mikkeller (again) delivers the goods with Stick a Finger in the Soil Pale Ale, which is stocked by Majestic as well as Marks & Sparks, as does Duration with its Turtles All the Way Down American Pale Ale (5.5%), brewed at Amundsen in Oslo. OK, it's not cheap (at £5.55 for 440ml from Hop, Burns & Black), but it's still brilliant value compared with most wines of that price.

Not that I'm averse to lager with a curry, but there's no more reason to drink a bog-standard one than there is to sip a flavourless pinot grigio. Just a word of warning, though: some pils I've been tasting recently are, in my opinion, too dry and bitter for Indian food and would be better with pickles than spice.

Thursday, September 27, 2018

Yotam Ottolenghi’s Middle Eastern recipes

Put the steaks on a board and cover with a sheet of clingfilm. Using a mallet or the base of small, heavy saucepan, bash the steaks until they are about 1.5cm thick. Cut up the steaks, fat and all, into 1.5cm cubes and put in a bowl with the ground black lime, lemon zest and juice, cumin, garlic, two tablespoons of olive oil, a teaspoon and a half of salt and a good grind of pepper. Leave to marinate at room temperature for at least two hours (or refrigerated overnight).
For the sumac onions, mix the onion, sumac, vinegar and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt, and leave to soften for at least 30 minutes.
Thread the beef on to the skewers, packing the cubes closely together. Generously grease a grill pan with sunflower oil and put on a high heat. Once smoking, lay in the skewers in batches and cook, turning as you go, for about three to four minutes in total, until charred all over but not over-cooked. Transfer to a tray and cover with foil to keep warm.
Warm the bread on a hot grill for about 30 seconds on each side.
To serve, put a flatbread on each plate and top with two beef skewers each, brushing them with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and sprinkling with the chilli. Toss the parsley and mint into the sumac onions, divide the mixture between the plates and serve.

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Food insecurity and mental health 'interconnected'


As food insecurity persists in the London area, it’s becoming clear it affects more than hunger.

An article published in the Canadian Journal of Psychiatry points to a connection between food insecurity and the use of mental health services in Ontario.

About one in eight Canadians experience food insecurity. Those who experience severe food insecurity, missing meals or even going days without eating, were much more likely to receive mental health treatment compared to food-secure adults, the article states.

"Those people struggling with mental health issues are often the ones who are food insecure," said public health dietitian Ellen Lakusiak.

The article found 20 per cent of those who visited primary care doctors for mental health reasons were food insecure and about 27 per cent of those who visited a psychiatrist were food insecure.


However, the research article also pointed to food insecurity having consequences for the health care system, outside of mental health. Food insecure adults account for about 38 per cent of those admitted to hospital and about 35 per cent of those treated in emergency departments.

Lakusiak also is the co-ordinator of the Middlesex London Food Policy Council, which works to advocate, influence policy and make a difference to the local food system. The council assessed food insecurity in the city and Middlesex County in 2015 and 2016.

"Based on the data, we’re not any worse or better compared to other communities, but we definitely have food insecurity issues," she said.

Lakusiak said dietitians are dealing with mental health concerns more frequently.

"There is a push now to work more on mental health," she said. "It’s very much interconnected."

To end food insecurity, underlying community issues like poverty must be addressed first. Poverty creates food insecurity and mental health concerns, said LifeSpin executive director Jacqueline Thompson.

"It’s a downward spiral," she said.

Those living in poverty do not have access to proper shelter and nutrition, Thompson said.

"They have no money for food and they are not eating a nice diet," she said. "Food budgets are being used to pay for housing."

Income support programs like Ontario Works do not provide enough to cover food and rent, said London Food Bank co-director Glen Pearson.

"Food is one of the things they have to sacrifice to pay rent. That’s not the way it should be," he said. "People should be able to afford their own food, but people need an income to do that."

Lack of a healthful diet also can prevent those living with food insecurity from workplace opportunities, said Thompson.

"They are not able to sustain employment because they have no nutrition to get them through the day," she said.

Thompson said London is "miles" away from addressing these issues.

"London doesn’t have a whole lot of anything," she said.

While services such as Mission Services and the Salvation Army provide meals as a short-term solution, Pearson said the ultimate goal is to have food security.

"There is no need for someone in London to go hungry," he said.

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

Healthy food choices are easy, even while on vacation

Vacations are a much-needed break from our daily routine but can also make it a little more challenging to eat well and stay on track with our health goals. Whether you're taking a family trip up north, heading to a new city or hitting the beach, here are my top five strategies to help you to make balanced food choices while away from home.

1. You're already planning, so don't forget to plan some meals too; it will be easier to make nutritious choices if you know exactly what you're getting yourself into. Before leaving, hit the web to research what restaurants, markets or grocery stores will be near you. Look at your daily travel plans to determine when and where you might be eating your meals. This information will help you narrow down what to pack food-wise and where to eat once you arrive. If your room has a stove, fridge or microwave, buy a few groceries to make your own healthy meals or snacks.

2. Focus on portion control. Travelling often means eating out. Whether it's at the airport, on the road or in a new town, be aware of larger portions. Restaurants are notorious for serving a meal that's two or three times the size you should eat. Aim to choose lean proteins that have been grilled, roasted or baked, and opt for extra veggies or a side salad instead of excess starches or grains. You can also try splitting a meal with a friend or family member to keep portions more reasonable. Don't forget to slow down your eating and take sips of water between bites so that you aren't rushing through your meal and filling up before you even notice you're satisfied.

3. Try to stick to a regular meal routine. When food is constantly made available — like at an all-inclusive resort or cottage — it can be tempting to graze and overeat throughout the day. On the other hand, if you've got an action-packed sightseeing agenda, it can be easy to skip out on meals and snacks. Plan to eat every three to five hours; a regular pattern will keep you energized and help prevent overeating or digestive issues.

4. Drink water to stay hydrated as much as possible; the calories in fruity drinks, fancy coffees and alcohol can add up quickly. Often, we also mistake hunger for thirst, so keeping a bottle of water nearby and drinking throughout the day can help curb overeating and reduce temptation of extra snacks or treats we may encounter on our journeys.

5. Limit your indulgences. Vacation is a time to relax and pamper yourself, but this doesn't have to mean indulging every chance you get. Work on limiting those sweet treats and calorie-laden dishes. If there is a small treat that you'd love to taste, go for it. But take the time to enjoy every bite — it's likely you will only need a couple bites to feel satisfied.

Monday, June 25, 2018

Tatar's national dessert chak-chak is a hit in Kazan

KAZAN, Russia (AP) -- There are arguably more chak-chaks for sale in Kazan's shops, cafes and restaurants than fans attending World Cup matches in the colorful city on the Volga river.

Traditionally eaten at weddings in central Asia, the sugary treat has become the national dessert of Tatarstan, the oil-rich region which promotes itself as the "Land of 1,001 Delights."

In the lively Bauman pedestrian street in downtown Kazan, vendors from the fast food chain Tubetey, which specializes in halal Tatar cuisine, are handing out the dish made from soft deep-fried dough, sugar and honey.

"When I was a kid, my parents, my relatives, used to make them at home. I grew up with chak-chaks," said Nourbek Batulla, a 30-year-old dancer told The Associated Press. "I would not say that I eat chak-chaks every day, but this is typically the kind of thing I bring when I'm invited somewhere."

Chak-chaks come in different shapes, most often in mounds, pyramids or noodles. During the World Cup, they are on display on the shelves of dozens of souvenir and food stores as Tatarstan's tourism officials use the dish to promote their region.

But it's not just for the tourists. Chak-chaks are truly loved by locals. Expensive in the ancient times because honey was a very rare commodity, chak-chaks are sold for about 30 rubles in Kazan's cafes -- the equivalent of half a dollar -- making them a very affordable pleasure. During the mild summer evenings of the World Cup, families sit at cafe terraces to enjoy the delicacy in the city located about 800 kilometers (500 miles) east of Moscow.

Chak-chaks are also very popular during Kazan's big events. In 2005, when the city celebrated its 1,000th birthday, a chak-chak weighing 1,000 kilograms (2,200 pounds) spanning across a 13,266 square meters area -- almost twice the size of a soccer field -- was made. More recently, a four-ton chack-chak, probably the biggest ever made, was baked to celebrate the start of the World Cup.

In Kazan, one of the 11 Russian cities hosting matches, the debate over the best makers and recipes of chak-chak has yet to be settled. Batulla recommends Khlebzavot 3, a factory where customers can buy their favorite dessert directly from manufacturers.

A good place to try the sugary dish is the chak-chak museum, a private place located in a refurbished 19th century wooden mansion just a stone's throw away from the Old Tatar district, on the left bank of the picturesque Kaban Lake.

There, Lisan Yarullina is taking visitors on a tour documenting Tatar's daily life before the 1917 Revolution that culminates with a degustation of chak-chaks and tea.

"There are so many recipes," she said. "Because it used to be a family-made thing, everyone has their own recipe, they are passed down through families. But the main ingredient is love. Without a good mood, it's impossible to achieve something tasty."

American tourist James Aguirre, in Russia for the World Cup, was among the group of about 10 people attending the visit at the museum earlier this week.

"It sorts of reminds me of Rice Krispies," he said.